Pregnancy can be a nerve-wracking time where skincare is concerned, especially if you struggled to conceive or have experienced miscarriage. Anything you put in or on your body naturally worries you a bit more. Beauty trends that emphasise “clean” (and often very expensive) products, making you feel like a bad parent for not choosing them even before your baby is born. The issue is complicated by the lack of skincare research related to pregnancy. Cosmetics trials on women carrying babies are considered unethical or too risky, which is also why your Botox and fillers provider will not perform procedures on you when you are pregnant, even though injectables aren’t proven to be unsafe for pregnant women. In short, you should ask your doctor or midwife about anything you want to put in or on your body while pregnant. Where research isn’t available, they will usually err on the side of caution.

Essential oils

We often think natural substances won’t be harmful in pregnancy, and many women do safely practice aromatherapy while pregnant and even during labour. However, these oils can produce quite strong and sensitising reactions, and not all of them are safe for pregnant women, especially if your pregnancy is considered high-risk. You also need to learn to use them in specific ways. Never apply undiluted essential oils directly to your skin. Clary sage, lavender, eucalyptus, and other oils may be beneficial while you're pregnant but should still be used as advised by a licensed practitioner. Fragrance-free plant oils, including almond and olive, are generally considered safe in pregnancy and should not produce a reaction.

Prescription retinoids and all retinol products

Prescription retinoids, including tretinoin, are not safe in pregnancy. Vitamin A, from which retinoid, retinol, etc. are derived, has been linked to birth defects, and because we do not know how much is safe, you are advised to avoid it while you are carrying a baby. Women use vitamin A-based skincare products for a number of reasons, and there should be safe ways to continue working towards your skincare goals or manage problems. Speak to your doctor or dermatologist about alternatives, as they will be able to give you the best advice for your pregnancy.

Acne medications

Oral medications for acne are not recommended for pregnant women. If you learn you’re pregnant while taking these, seek advice from your doctor immediately. If you are using Differin or Adapalene for acne, you should also stop applying it. Topical acne products like benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid are considered safe in pregnancy. However, as acne in pregnancy can develop for the first time or become worse if you suffered from it before, it’s important to speak with your doctor about what you're using and discuss a management plan.

Anti-pigmentation products

Chloasma, or melasma, also known as the'mask of pregnancy,’ is a hormone-related skin issue that can cause your face to darken in pregnancy. It usually goes away on its own afterwards and can of course be neutralised with makeup. If you have other pigmentation that bothers you, high vitamin C products, ferulic acid, niacinamide, azealic and glycolic acids, and daily sun protection are thought to help with skin brightening over time. There are prescription whitening products that contain hydroquinone. These are generally considered to be safe in pregnancy and sometimes prescribed to women with chloasma.

Fake tan

Fake tan works by altering the colour of the outer layer of your skin using a non-enzymatic chemical called dihydroxyacetone. The Maillard reaction that causes the colour to develop is purely topical and very safe in pregnancy. The removal of fake tan typically takes quite a lot of scrubbing with a granular exfoliant or the use of an exfoliating acid like glycolic acid. These products are also extremely safe, though they can leave skin extra sensitive and more vulnerable to UV rays. Remember to cover up!

Sun protection

You should definitely continue to wear broad-spectrum sun protection products while you're pregnant. Sunscreens can be both natural and chemical. There are some concerns about the chemical forms in pregnancy, as they are thought to disrupt endocrine activity, though there is no NHS guidance saying that you should avoid them, and the American Congress of Obstetricians and Gynecologists has no specific guidelines on sun protection for pregnant women. Chemical sunscreens are potentially more irritating and sensitising than their natural counterparts. If it bothers you, there are many affordable natural-filter sun protection products.

Prescription steroid creams

These may be given for the management of acne and other chronic atopic conditions. As with acne and retinoid prescription products, you should stop taking them once you learn that you are pregnant and speak to your doctor about them. You should also discuss alternative ways to stay comfortable in pregnancy with eczema if you are planning to become pregnant, as pregnancy hormones can exacerbate this condition, especially in the third trimester.

Stretch mark creams

These are safe, but we must warn you they are not proven to prevent stretch marks, which are highly dependent on your genes and how much weight you gain in pregnancy.

Sulphates and fragrance

Going sulphate-free in pregnancy is not something you have to do. Sulphates have been linked to birth defects in some animal studies, and they can cause skin irritation and sensitivity. Speak to your doctor about what’s right for you.

As for fragrance, it can exacerbate nausea, which is common in pregnancy, especially in the first and third trimesters. Heavily fragranced skincare can also sensitise and potentially irritate your skin.

For more advice on taking care of yourself in pregnancy, labour, and birth, check out Unii’s Antenatal Classes, with prenatal video episodes taught by senior NHS midwives, an award-winning obstetrician and gynaecologist, and six other leading healthcare experts. Only at unii.com.

For more advice on staying healthy during every week you're expecting, take Unii's Pregnancy Journey video course with Dr. Shree Datta.

Antenatal Class Questions: Which skincare is safe in pregnancy?

Unii tackles the often confusing subject of caring for your skin in pregnancy.